Replacing Hydraulic Cylinder Seals – Part 4 – What did I do wrong?

So what did I do wrong? This should not be this hard to do. I talk about seal kits and what to look for if there is issues. OEMs change parts all the time and sometimes you can’t even trust your dealer to get you what you need.

Don’t just take your dealer’s word for it, research it yourself. Luckily New Holland has a decent parts catalog online and allows anyone to dig through it. I went to the New Holland dealer to sort it all out and explain the whole ordeal in this video.

Hydraulic cylinder seals should go in easy. Don’t keep working at a seal that does not want to go in. There is probably something wrong if you have to force your way through the kit.

Learn from my mistakes in this video so you can easily cruise through your next hydraulic cylinder rebuild.

Replacing Hydraulic Cylinder Seals – Part 3 – Pulling it all apart

Now that we are able to remove the hydraulic cylinder gland, I need to pull the cylinder apart so I can replace the seals. Once I get into the gland and plunger deals I run into issues. I think its related to the aftermarket seal kit, so I go and order the OEM kit from New Holland. I compare the seal kits that you get form the aftermarket suppliers verses the OEM suppliers.

OEM is definitely a nicer kit and I would recommend just going with OEM from the start if you can. Some hydraulic cylinders are so old that you can’t get OEM seal kits for, so in those cases you just have to hope aftermarket will work.

Always try to research your seal kits before you start the tear down of the hydraulic cylinders so you know what you are dealing with. You may also call your local hydraulic shop to see if they have generic seals that will work for your cylinder, especially if its old.

Replacing Hydraulic Cylinder Seals – Part 2 – Removing a stuck gland

So in part one I start the process of replacing the seals in my New Holland LB75B loader hydraulic tilt cylinder and run into issues removing the gland. This video I show you how I solved that using the peening method. Using a simple ball peen hammer, I am able to work the retaining wire out. This method was a life saver and is probably the best way to remove a stubborn hydraulic gland.

The peening method should work for all shapes and sizes of hydraulic cylinders. Peening is a common method used in welding and metal work. I hear people using cutting torches to heat up the gland and that can work, but you also risk warping the cylinder tube. You can also use a pipe wrench and a very large cheater bar, but you risk tearing up the gland and beating up the hydraulic cylinder rod. DO NOT HIT THE CYLINDER ROD. That is a big mistake.

The peening method should be all you need to do to remove that frozen up gland. Either locktite was used or you have rust in the gland, but the peening method will get it off.

Here is a post about someone talking about the peening method for gland removal: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/hoist-piston-end-cap-removal-question.11396/

Before you lose your mind trying to get a gland off, try this method. Let me know in the comments if this worked for you.

In the next video of this series, I talk about seal kits and how part number changes can give you a read headache.